Historical sketch of Gdańsk

For a thousand years Gdańsk, like a sailor with his knots, has been marking the important and even climacteric dates of its own history in the history of Poland, Europe and the world. In this statement there is no exaggeration dictated by a merely personal relationship with the city, which for successive generations of its inhabitants has been a small homeland and to which they have felt a particular attachment. For Gdańsk, apart from this obvious and subjectively-written history, so dear to each of its citizens, possesses also the dimension of a city-symbol, and as such it transcends its individual, regional and national significance, becoming a universal value. Although this may sound rather grandiloquent, that is in fact how it is. After all it was here in September 1939 that the hell of the Second World War started, and it was also here that the 'Solidarity' movement was born, the movement that would bring about the victory of democracy in this part of Europe. These two facts in themselves, of such importance in the history of Europe and the world, prove that thinking about Gdańsk as an exceptional place, is not just a stylistic manipulation. Bearing that in mind, it is worth becoming acquainted with Gdańsk and offering the city a good place in one's memory.

The riches of the city coming from trade bore fruit in the development of culture, science and art. This was transformed into spiritual and material beauty, still evident despite the fact that the absurdity of the Second World War almost destroyed it all. Wandering around this fascinating city it is worth remembering that its most beautiful areas - the so-called Main Town with its marvellous Royal Route - was raised from the rubble by post-war generations of Gdańsk citizens, both those newly-arrived and the older ones. It was faithfully rebuilt and returned to its old splendour out of respect for the values which the madness and senselessness had not managed to destroy.

How to get to know Gdańsk? Well, it's not an easy question to answer. The city is a living organism, not a museum exhibition with its collection laid out in strictly defined categories. You have to keep coming back to Gdańsk, just as to any favourite place. You have to experience the autumn chills on the Motlawa, from which you can shelter in one of the cafés on the riverside. You have to be here at dawn in the summer to see how the sun slowly covers the town-houses on Dluga Street and Dlugi Targ. You have to mingle with the colourful crowds along the Royal Route or on the Long Riverside during St Dominic's Fair. You have to feel the wind from the sea as it refreshes you during the August heatwaves. And in the evening - you have to listen to the sounds of footsteps echoing along St Mary's Street, because then you can hear best of all how history walks arm-in-arm with the present. Here the shadow of St Mary's Basilica slowly, like the hand of a huge clock, slides along the terraces of the houses on St Mary's Street. It is a daily mystery, repeated for centuries, renewed once again in front of yet another generation. And it is an enormous shadow, because the basilica is the biggest Gothic building in Gdańsk. And not only in Gdańsk - it is one of the largest churches in Europe, measuring as it does 105 metres in length, 30 metres in height and it can accommodate 25 thousand people. Its builders were in no hurry. From 25 March 1343, when the foundation-stone was laid, 159 years were to pass before they finished the construction in 1502. Successive masons lifted the construction higher, decorated the interior with star and crystal vaulting, added chapels and created slender turrets climbing 78 metres above Old Gdańsk.

For over one and a half centuries they created a monumental stone book - a record of their skill. The interior in every detail - the grave-stones, the epitaphs - complement this record. After many years the astronomical clock is working again - it is the work of Hans Duringer from 1470. In the chapel of St Rajnold the 19th century copy of Hans Memling's 'The Last Judgement' (the original is in the National Museum in Gdańsk) reminds us not only about the end of the world, but also about the Gdańsk privateer Pawel Beneke, who captured this painting during the Anglo-Hanseatic War in April 1473 and offered it to St Mary's Basilica. The Basilica towers over Gdańsk with its massive Gothic bulk. Beneath it the streets of the Old Town seem to run like streams at the foot of a great mountain. But the church is not overwhelming, it does not stop their flow. It can be stated that it rules proudly but kindly.

Then there is the most beautiful of routes - the Royal Route, as if clasped at each end with a beautiful buckle - the Golden Gate and the Green Gate. The Golden Gate was constructed from 1612 to 1614 according to a design by Abraham van den Blocke and under the masterly control of the builder Jan Strakowski - it is a true architectural masterpiece. But how could it be otherwise, since it is this triumphal arch which leads to the Royal Route, to Dluga Street and Dlugi Targ. Crowned with statues representing Peace, Liberty, Wealth, Fame, Prudence, Piety, Justice and Concord, sculpted by the Gdańsk artist Piotr Ringering, it gives a foretaste of what will be seen once we have passed under the arch. Here begins a stroll past two rows of town-houses, which become even prettier the further we progress along the Royal Route. Near the beginning, at number 12, we can see the rococo interiors of Uphagen's House, which belonged to the 17th century councillor and alderman, who donated his residence with all its furnishings to the city. Today the building houses the Museum of Bourgeois Interiors. At number 29 there is the house which used to belong to the outstanding patrician families the Czirenbergs and the Brandeses. Its façade was designed by Abraham van den Blocke, while the medallions with the likenesses of Caesars were sculpted by Piotr Ringering. On the opposite side, at number 28, there is the house, preserved in the Renaissance style, of the Ferbers, one of the greatest Gdańsk dynasties. A few doors further down, at number 35, stone lions are looking out from the portal. This is the so-called Lions' Castle, probably designed by Jan Kramer and constructed in 1569. In this house in the 17th century lived the Schwartzwalds, who organised discussions here for outstanding academics and artists. At 45 Dluga Street there is the house of the Schumanns from around 1560, called by many experts the most beautiful in the city with its decorations of the mythological figures of Diana and Apollo.

On the other hand, a few steps further along the uncommon beauty of the Golden House draws the eye. You cannot possibly miss it - it is at 41 Dlugi Targ. It was conjured up by the talent of Abraham van den Blocke. Descriptions are inadequate! You simply have to see it. Next to Artus' Court and opposite the Neptune Fountain, the Golden House appears to be just a little gem, but then the function of Artus' Court was completely different: for centuries it was the most elegant and representative salon for the burgher brotherhoods, who did not begrudge money to make it ever more beautiful. The creator of the rich Renaissance façade from 1617 was of course Abraham van den Blocke. It is composed of three pointed-arched windows, a stone portal with bas-reliefs portraying King Zygmunt III and the Crown Prince Wladyslaw, a decorative attic with allegorical figures of Justice and Strength in the niches, and the whole is crowned with a personification of Fortune above the ridge of the roof.

In the enormous hall of Artus' Court there is, among other features, a Gothic sculpture of St George from 1485, paintings by Evert from 1585 depicting the parade of the Polish armies after the capture of Malbork and by Jan de Vriese from 1592 depicting Orpheus. The most interesting element of the interior is a huge 12-metre-high tiled stove - the largest Renaissance stove in the world! After careful renovation Artus' Court once again serves a representative function. Once kings were received here - now it is presidents. This happened for example in 1993, when President François Mitterrand of France and President Richard von Weizsaecker of Germany, in the company of President Lech Walesa of Poland, received their doctorates honoris causa from the University of Gdańsk. Here also in June 1997, Gdańsk's memorable millennium year, three former presidents: George Bush of the USA, Richard von Weizsaecker of Germany and Lech Walesa of Poland, were made honorary citizens of Gdańsk. At the end of the Royal Route stands the green Gate, the work of Jan Kramer and the Dutchman Regnier, constructed in 1564-1568 with the intention of being a permanent residence for Polish monarchs. That is why it was designed with such panache and decorated with coats of arms.

The Royal Route, St Mary's Basilica, the Great Armoury, the Upland Gate, the Torture-House, St Mary's Street, Chlebnicka Street, Piwna Street - this is just a small part of Gdańsk. It is like a modest slice of a great gateau, skilfully created by the greatest confectioners. But just as no description can adequately replace the taste of a gateau, so Gdańsk cannot be properly described. You have to see this enchanting city for yourself. You have to immerse yourself into its daily life in order to feel, just alongside, like a guardian angel, the presence of History accompanying your every step ...

( excerpts from: http://www.gdansk.pl/en )